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| Getting Back to Nature: Tramping the North Island's National Parks |  |
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For Kiwis (New Zealanders), tramping (hiking) through these stunning wildernesses is part of their culture and identity. Tramping usually refers to overnight or multi-day hiking through the natural environment, roughing-it in basic huts or tents, and most importantly, escaping modern life to reconnect with the land. All of NZ's national parks are managed and maintained by the government's Department of Conservation (DOC) and offer facilities such as information centres, hikers' huts and camping grounds for visitor use. However, those venturing into these protected wilderness areas must keep in mind that the rugged terrain and often unpredictable weather changes require informed preparation, experience and common sense. BE PREPARED The North Island's national parks can be accessed year round, although more care and experience is required during winter (June to August) when temperatures drop and snow falls in alpine regions. Tongariro and Egmont National Parks offer spectacular winter alpine hiking for experienced climbers (guides may be required). Coastal and forest parks can also be thoroughly enjoyed on crisp, sunny winter days, especially as trail and hut traffic is low. During the colder months, layers of appropriate wool or fleece clothing are necessary. Hiking boots, wind-breakers, waterproof outer layers, crampons and ice axes for alpine tramping or climbing, thermals, warm hats, gloves, and even sunscreen and sunglasses are a must. Autumn (March to May) and spring (September to November) are excellent seasons for tramping in North Island parks. Mild temperatures, incredible views and relatively quiet hikers' huts and campsites are among the benefits. In spring, visitors can enjoy the melodious song of the amorous tui, one of the country's native birds.
During all seasons, thorough preparation is vital. Sudden weather changes are common, especially at elevated heights. Sufficient clothing, sunscreen and sunglasses, high energy food, portable cooking stoves and utensils, sleeping bags and emergency supplies should be packed into a comfortable backpack. Multi-day trips should be registered with the area information centre or DOC office and hikers should stick to the trails at all times. Local information centres and DOC offices have park and hiking information. EAST COAST REGION Rugged mountains and spectacular coastline make up the North Island's East Coast region, which runs along the coast from East Cape to Hawke's Bay. The region features wild, remote areas, beautiful beaches and the North Island's hottest summers. Te Urewera National Park Located between the Bay of Plenty and Hawke's Bay, Te Urewera National Park was established in 1954 and is NZ's fourth largest national park, claiming an area of 212,673 ha (525,526 acres). Bejewelled with two sparkling lakes and the largest remaining area of native forest in the North Island, Te Urewera is the ancestral home of the native Tuhoe people. Known as "children of the mist", the Tuhoe were said to be born of the mist maiden, Hine Pukohurangi, and the mountain, Te Maunga.
The Lake Waikaremoana Track, a three- to four-day hike around the western edge of the lake, is classified as one of DOC's Great Walks of NZ. This 46 km (29 mi) track is of moderate difficulty and climbs the Panekire Ridge before descending to the lakeshore. Popular year round, the scenic Lake Waikaremoana Track explores ancient native forest, which is home to all but one of NZ's native bird species. Shorter walks and strolls can be accessed from the Aniwaniwa Visitor Centre and lakeside motor camp, leading to park treasures such as various waterfalls, one of NZ's largest rata trees and the smaller Lake Waikareiti. Hikers should be aware that this rugged park has very remote areas, and due to high elevation, is susceptible to extreme weather changes. Snow falls are known to occur as late as November and visitors should take all appropriate precautions. Besides the full-service motor camp at Lake Waikaremoana, basic DOC-operated huts and campsites provide accommodation for trampers along the Lake Waikaremoana Track and in other park areas. Advanced bookings are required all year. Accommodation before and after a park visit can be found at Te Urewera's closest town, Wairoa. To get to the park from Wairoa, follow State Highway 38 for about 70 km (42 mi) to Aniwaniwa and Te Urewera National Park. Take care and allow plenty of time as this section of the highway is unsealed gravel. CENTRAL PLATEAU Nowhere else is the North Island's contrastive landscape more obvious than the Central Plateau. In stark juxtaposition to other typically bush-clad areas of the North Island, the Central Plateau is the island's hard-baked, desert-like heart and a volatile volcanic past simmers just below the cracked surface. Tongariro National Park Home to three towering volcanoes in the very centre of the North Island, Tongariro is NZ's oldest national park. It was gifted to the nation in 1887 by an influential Maori chief, Te Heuheu Tukino IV. Since then, Tongariro National Park has gained World Heritage Area status for both its Maori cultural significance and ancient volcanic features. According to legend, a brave explorer, Ngatoroirangi, almost froze to death in the mountains of this region. He called to his sisters in Hawaiiki for help and they sent him fire, leaving a trail of volcanoes across the Pacific, all the way to Tongariro. Today this is known as the southern sweep of the Pacific Rim of Fire.
Hikers traversing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Northern Circuit or a number of shorter walks within the park will marvel at this harsh, steaming environment where pockets of forest thrive on sheltered lower slopes. Herb fields, lakes, hot springs, waterfalls, native birds and NZ's only native mammals – short- and long-tailed bats – can all be discovered in this breathtaking park. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing and Northern Circuit can be attempted during winter but hikers must have mountaineering equipment and experience. It is also important to check the avalanche forecast. Trips in strong winds should be avoided at all times during the year and visitors should be prepared for sudden changes in weather. Basic DOC huts offer hikers accommodation along the Northern Circuit and throughout other areas of the park, but with the luxurious Bayview Chateau also located in the park, visitors may be tempted to indulge. Whakapapa Village, at the foot of Mt. Ruapehu, features camping grounds, cabins, hotels and motels and the surrounding towns of Turangi, National Park Village, Taupo and Ohakune also offer abundant accommodation options. The park is easily accessed from these towns but accommodation bookings are essential during summer and the ski season. WHANGANUI REGION Southwest of the Central Plateau, the Whanganui region stretches to the west coast of the North Island, ushering the Whanganui River along on its journey from the mountains to the Tasman Sea. This lush area is carpeted in native forest and carved with steep ravines, spectacular gorges and sharp valleys. Whanganui National Park Just north of Whanganui and south of Taumarunui, Whanganui National Park is home to the middle and lower stretches of the mighty river, which was historically an important thoroughfare and part of life for local Maori and European settlers. Established in 1986, Whanganui National Park today protects one of the largest lowland native forests remaining in the North Island. This pure, natural paradise nurtures a variety of native birds, including kiwi, kereru (native pigeon), tui and piwakawaka (fantail), while the river is alive with eels, native trout, freshwater crayfish and black flounder.
There are also many short walks and longer tramping trips within the park. The Matemateaonga Track is a favourite multi-day hike with astounding views. This challenging 42 km (26 mi), three- to four-day tramp (one way) follows an old Maori trail and settlers' road deep into the park, traversing thick bush-clad hills between Taranaki and the river. The track entrance is at Kohi Saddle, reached from State Highway 43 at Strathmore, and transport by jetboat is required to or from the river end of the track. In addition to campsites along the river, there are also backcountry huts located along trails throughout the park. The nearby towns of Taumarunui, Whanganui, Pipiriki, Ohinepane and Whakahoro also offer a range of accommodation and access to the park. Egmont National Park On the westernmost tip of the North Island, Mt Taranaki (or Egmont) rises 2,518 m (8,261 ft) skyward from the relatively flat surrounds, a perfect cone-shape resemblant of Mount Fuji. This 120,000-year-old volcano last erupted in 1775 and is the proud focal point of Egmont National Park. Legend tells that Mount Taranaki was banished from his original home in the central North Island for making romantic advances toward another mountain. Dragging himself westward, he carved out the Whanganui riverbed along the way.
The Summit Track is a seven to 11-hour return trip from the North Egmont Visitor Centre and should only be attempted by experienced hikers and climbers in good weather. Less taxing viewpoints can be reached along the Pouakai Circuit, which encounters a stunning complexity of terrain. It takes two to three days to complete the 25 km (16 mi) track, which also starts and finishes at the North Egmont Visitor Centre. Regardless of which track hikers take, those that venture up Taranaki's slopes will be rewarded with great views of the North Island's rural heartland. Short trails from the Dawson Falls Visitor Centre access the stunning Dawson waterfalls and beyond, and the popular Kamahi day-walk in East Egmont leads to the gnarled mid-mountain Goblin Forest and the deep Wilkies Pools. Egmont National Park is one of the most easily accessible wilderness parks in NZ and its many entrances can be directly accessed from nearby New Plymouth, Inglewood, Stratford and Opunake. These decent-sized towns provide a wealth of accommodation options. There are eight DOC huts and two hikers' lodges catering to overnight trampers inside the park, as well as two privately owned lodges, Dawson Falls Mountain Lodge and the Mountain House. PHOTOS COURTESY OF:
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