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Hikers
May Hear the Kiwi's Call at Night1 |
New
Zealand's national parks preserve the country's distinctive heritage –
a mix of diverse, untamed landscapes, unique flora and fauna, a history shaped
by native Maori and European settlers, and the magic of Maori legend. From restless
volcanoes to lush native forests, delicate wetlands to harsh plateaus and deep
alpine lakes to secluded coastal bays, the North
Island's
four national parks protect and showcase each area's varied geographical wonders,
and New Zealanders and foreign visitors alike just can't get enough.
For Kiwis (New Zealanders), tramping (hiking) through these stunning wildernesses
is part of their culture and identity. Tramping usually refers to overnight or
multi-day hiking through the natural environment, roughing-it in basic huts or
tents, and most importantly, escaping modern life to reconnect with the land.
All of NZ's national parks are managed and maintained by the government's Department
of Conservation (DOC) and offer facilities such as information centres,
hikers' huts and camping grounds for visitor use. However, those venturing into
these protected wilderness areas must keep in mind that the rugged terrain and
often unpredictable weather changes require informed preparation, experience and
common sense.
BE PREPARED
The North Island's national parks can be accessed year round, although more care
and experience is required during winter (June to August) when temperatures drop
and snow falls in alpine regions. Tongariro
and Egmont
National Parks offer spectacular winter alpine hiking for experienced
climbers (guides may be required). Coastal and forest parks can also be thoroughly
enjoyed on crisp, sunny winter days, especially as trail and hut traffic is low.
During the colder months, layers of appropriate wool or fleece clothing are necessary.
Hiking boots, wind-breakers, waterproof outer layers, crampons and ice axes for
alpine tramping or climbing, thermals, warm hats, gloves, and even sunscreen and
sunglasses are a must.
Autumn (March to May) and spring (September to November) are excellent seasons
for tramping in North Island parks. Mild temperatures, incredible views and relatively
quiet hikers' huts and campsites are among the benefits. In spring, visitors can
enjoy the melodious song of the amorous tui, one of the country's native birds.
Summer (December to February)
is of course the most popular tramping season due to warm temperatures, access
to water activities and striking colours. Prior reservations for camping sites
and hiking huts during this time are especially necessary.
During all seasons,
thorough preparation is vital. Sudden weather changes are common, especially at
elevated heights. Sufficient clothing, sunscreen and sunglasses, high energy food,
portable cooking stoves and utensils, sleeping bags and emergency supplies should
be packed into a comfortable backpack. Multi-day trips should be registered with
the area information centre or DOC office and hikers should stick to the trails
at all times. Local information centres and DOC offices have park and hiking information.
EAST COAST REGION
Rugged mountains and spectacular coastline make up the North Island's East Coast
region, which runs along the coast from East Cape to Hawke's
Bay. The region features wild, remote areas, beautiful beaches and the
North Island's hottest summers.
Te Urewera National Park
Located between the Bay of Plenty
and Hawke's Bay, Te
Urewera National Park was established in 1954 and is NZ's fourth largest
national park, claiming an area of 212,673 ha (525,526 acres). Bejewelled with
two sparkling lakes and the largest remaining area of native forest in the North
Island, Te Urewera is the ancestral home of the native Tuhoe people. Known as
"children of the mist", the Tuhoe were said to be born of the mist maiden,
Hine Pukohurangi, and the mountain, Te Maunga.
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Looking out over
Lake Waikaremoana2
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The larger of the two lakes,
Lake
Waikaremoana, was formed over 2,000 years ago when a massive landslide
blocked and dammed the Waikaretaheke River. This sprawling lake is the park's
main attraction and draws crowds of people to its shores during summer.
The Lake Waikaremoana Track, a three- to four-day hike around the western edge
of the lake, is classified as one of DOC's Great Walks of NZ. This 46 km (29 mi)
track is of moderate difficulty and climbs the Panekire Ridge before descending
to the lakeshore. Popular year round, the scenic Lake Waikaremoana Track explores
ancient native forest, which is home to all but one of NZ's native bird species.
Shorter walks and strolls can be accessed from the Aniwaniwa
Visitor Centre and lakeside motor camp, leading to park treasures such
as various waterfalls, one of NZ's largest rata trees and the smaller Lake
Waikareiti.
Hikers should be aware
that this rugged park has very remote areas, and due to high elevation, is susceptible
to extreme weather changes. Snow falls are known to occur as late as November
and visitors should take all appropriate precautions.
Besides the full-service motor
camp at Lake Waikaremoana, basic DOC-operated huts and campsites provide
accommodation for trampers along the Lake Waikaremoana Track and in other park
areas. Advanced bookings are required all year. Accommodation
before and after a park visit can be found at Te Urewera's closest town, Wairoa.
To get to the park from Wairoa, follow State Highway 38 for about 70 km (42 mi)
to Aniwaniwa and Te Urewera National Park. Take care and allow plenty of time
as this section of the highway is unsealed gravel.
CENTRAL PLATEAU
Nowhere else is the North Island's contrastive landscape more obvious than the
Central Plateau. In stark juxtaposition to other typically bush-clad areas of
the North Island, the Central Plateau is the island's hard-baked, desert-like
heart and a volatile volcanic past simmers just below the cracked surface.
Tongariro National Park
Home to three towering volcanoes in the very centre of the North Island, Tongariro
is NZ's oldest national park. It was gifted to the nation in 1887 by an influential
Maori chief, Te Heuheu Tukino IV. Since then, Tongariro
National Park has gained World Heritage Area status for both its Maori
cultural significance and ancient volcanic features. According to legend, a brave
explorer, Ngatoroirangi, almost froze to death in the mountains of this region.
He called to his sisters in Hawaiiki for help and they sent him fire, leaving
a trail of volcanoes across the Pacific, all the way to Tongariro. Today this
is known as the southern sweep of the Pacific Rim of Fire.
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| On
the Tongariro Alpine Crossing Track3 |
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Tongariro's volcanoes are named
Tongariro,
Ngauruhoe
and Ruapehu.
These volcanically-active mountains have an energy that attracts thousands of
visitors each year. In addition to prime skiing on Mt Ruapehu's slopes at Whakapapa
and Turoa
ski fields, people come from far and wide for one of NZ's most popular short treks,
the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. This unforgettable day trek between Tongariro and
Ngauruhoe attracts about 70,000 hikers each summer and is part of the longer three-
to four-day Northern Circuit. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing track climbs to 1,900
m (6,234 ft) over a distance of 18.5 km (11.5 mi) and takes approximately six
to eight hours. Those that want to take it easy can break it up with a stay at
the 26-bunk Ketetahi Hut, located along the trail. The track crosses fascinating
volcanic terrain, revealing old lava flows, emerald lakes, steam vents, mountain
springs and unparalleled views. It should be noted that the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
is not a round trip. Many local operators provide transport service to and from
surrounding towns.
Hikers traversing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, Northern Circuit or a number
of shorter walks within the park will marvel at this harsh, steaming environment
where pockets of forest thrive on sheltered lower slopes. Herb fields, lakes,
hot springs, waterfalls, native birds and NZ's only native mammals – short-
and long-tailed bats – can all be discovered in this breathtaking park.
The Tongariro Alpine
Crossing and Northern Circuit can be attempted during winter but hikers must have
mountaineering equipment and experience. It is also important to check the avalanche
forecast. Trips in strong winds should be avoided at all times during the year
and visitors should be prepared for sudden changes in weather.
Basic DOC huts offer hikers accommodation along the Northern Circuit and throughout
other areas of the park, but with the luxurious Bayview
Chateau also located in the park, visitors may be tempted to indulge.
Whakapapa
Village, at the foot of Mt. Ruapehu, features camping grounds, cabins,
hotels and motels and the surrounding towns of Turangi,
National Park Village, Taupo
and Ohakune
also offer abundant accommodation options. The park is easily accessed from these
towns but accommodation bookings are essential during summer and the ski season.
WHANGANUI REGION
Southwest of the Central Plateau, the Whanganui
region stretches to the west coast of the North Island, ushering the Whanganui
River along on its journey from the mountains to the Tasman Sea. This
lush area is carpeted in native forest and carved with steep ravines, spectacular
gorges and sharp valleys.
Whanganui National Park
Just north of Whanganui
and south of Taumarunui,
Whanganui
National Park is home to the middle and lower stretches of the mighty
river, which was historically an important thoroughfare and part of life for local
Maori and European settlers. Established in 1986, Whanganui National Park today
protects one of the largest lowland native forests remaining in the North Island.
This pure, natural paradise nurtures a variety of native birds, including kiwi,
kereru (native pigeon), tui and piwakawaka (fantail), while the river is alive
with eels, native trout, freshwater crayfish and black flounder.
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Paddling
the Mighty Whanganui River4 |
Featuring spectacular valleys
and ridges sculpted by the river, the park attracts nature lovers, hikers and
water sports enthusiasts to its impressive landscape. Although requiring more
input from arms and less of the legs, the Whanganui River Canoe Trip features
on DOC's list of NZ's Great Walks, and is the park's main attraction. Paddling
145 km (90 mi) from Taumaranui to Pipiriki over about five days, this Grade 2
trip is enjoyable at a range of ability levels. There are campsites and basic
DOC huts along the river, including Tieke Hut which is run like a marae –
a traditional Maori meeting house – and is a genuine cultural experience.
A river journey pass is needed to access riverbank facilities from October to
April and visitors should enquire at the local DOC office or information centre.
There are also many
short walks and longer tramping trips within the park. The Matemateaonga Track
is a favourite multi-day hike with astounding views. This challenging 42 km (26
mi), three- to four-day tramp (one way) follows an old Maori trail and settlers'
road deep into the park, traversing thick bush-clad hills between Taranaki
and the river. The track entrance is at Kohi Saddle, reached from State Highway
43 at Strathmore, and transport by jetboat is required to or from the river end
of the track.
In addition to campsites along the river, there are also backcountry huts located
along trails throughout the park. The nearby towns of Taumarunui,
Whanganui,
Pipiriki, Ohinepane and Whakahoro also offer a range of accommodation and access
to the park.
Egmont National Park
On the westernmost tip of the North Island, Mt
Taranaki (or Egmont) rises 2,518 m (8,261 ft) skyward from the relatively
flat surrounds, a perfect cone-shape resemblant of Mount Fuji. This 120,000-year-old
volcano last erupted in 1775 and is the proud focal point of Egmont
National Park. Legend tells that Mount Taranaki was banished from his
original home in the central North Island for making romantic advances toward
another mountain. Dragging himself westward, he carved out the Whanganui riverbed
along the way.
NZ's second national park, established in 1900, Egmont is a favourite of mountain-climbers,
hikers and botany buffs. Featuring rainforest, harsh mountain slopes, alpine scrub,
eroded cliffs, waterfalls, wetlands and far-reaching views, this park offers a
variety of short, easy walks, serious tramps and challenging climbs.
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Crossroads on
Mt Taranaki5
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The Summit Track is a seven
to 11-hour return trip from the North
Egmont Visitor Centre and should only be attempted by experienced hikers
and climbers in good weather. Less taxing viewpoints can be reached along the
Pouakai Circuit, which encounters a stunning complexity of terrain. It takes two
to three days to complete the 25 km (16 mi) track, which also starts and finishes
at the North Egmont Visitor Centre. Regardless of which track hikers take, those
that venture up Taranaki's slopes will be rewarded with great views of the North
Island's rural heartland.
Short trails from the
Dawson
Falls Visitor Centre access the stunning Dawson
waterfalls and beyond, and the popular Kamahi day-walk in East Egmont
leads to the gnarled mid-mountain Goblin Forest and the deep Wilkies Pools.
Egmont National Park is one of the most easily accessible wilderness parks in
NZ and its many entrances can be directly accessed from nearby New
Plymouth, Inglewood, Stratford and Opunake.
These decent-sized towns provide a wealth of accommodation options. There are
eight DOC huts and two hikers' lodges catering to overnight trampers inside the
park, as well as two privately owned lodges, Dawson
Falls Mountain Lodge and the Mountain
House.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF:
- Maungatautari Ecological
Island Trust; North Island Brown Kiwi; North Island, NZ
- Department of Conservation;
Te Urewera National Park; North Island, NZ
- Rob Suisted; c/o Tourism
New Zealand; Tongariro Alpine Crossing Track, Tongariro National Park; North
Island, NZ
- Ben Crawford; c/o Tourism
New Zealand; Whanganui River, Whanganui National Park; North Island, NZ
- Department of Conservation;
Mt Taranaki, Egmont National Park; North Island, NZ
